Polysorbate 20 (Tween 20)

Description

Polysorbate 20 is a gentle, versatile non-ionic emulsifier and solubilizer used to blend light oils (such as fragrance & essential oils) into water-based cosmetic formulations.

It’s used in the formulation of skincare, haircare, and personal care products.

 

Overview (Polysorbate 20)

INCI Name: Polysorbate 20
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‎Other Names: Tween 20, Sorbitan Monolaurate, PEG-20 Sorbitan Laurate.

Appearance: Clear to pale yellow liquid.

‎Solubility: Soluble in water and alcohol; insoluble in oils. Miscible with oils when combined with co-emulsifiers.

Shelf Life: ‎24 months

‎Storage Tips:‎Store in a tightly sealed container, in a cool, dry place, away from direct sunlight and moisture.

Ingredient Functions:

• ‎Water-soluble Emulsifier (non-ionic)
• Solubilizer: Helps dissolve essential oils and fragrance oils into water or water-soluble liquids;
• Mild surfactant;
• Dispersing agent: helps disperse oil in water.
• ‎Wetting agent (improves the spreadability of liquids and products;
• Stabilizer: Helps prevent ingredients from separating.

 

Benefits & Uses of Polyurethane 20 in Cosmetic Formulations

• Helps solubilize essential oils and fragrance oils into water-based products;
• Enhances product clarity and stability;
• Ideal for transparent or lightly tinted formulations;
• Reduces surface tension in order to make smoother emulsions
• Gentle on skin, suitable for sensitive formulations

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Common Applications

Here are some types of products that Polysorbate 20 is used as one of the ingredients:

• ‎‎Body sprays and perfumes
• Room and linen sprays
• Facial mists and toners
• ‎Cleansers, face washes & micellar waters
• ‎Bath oils and body scrubs
• Shampoos and conditioners
• Lotions and creams

 

Formulation Guidelines (How to Use Polysorbate 20)

Usage Rate: 0.5% to 5%

Incorporation/ Formulation Phase:

• Add Polysorbate 20 to the water phase or cool-down phase;
• First pre-mix Polysorbate 20 with your oils, essential oils or fragrance oils before adding to water.
• Give it a gentle stir and give it some time to allow for full dispersion.

Heat Sensitivity: Stable up to 60°C. Avoid extended heating of Polysorbate 20 above this temperature.

‎Stable pH Range: 4.5 to 7.5

Compatibility: Polysorbate 20 plays well with other non-ionic surfactants and emulsifiers.
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How to Solubilize Fragrances with Polysorbate 20 to Make Sprays

Polysorbate 20 is used as a solubilizer to help disperse fragrance oils in water-based products such as room sprays and body mists.

Generally, you should use between a 1:1 to 1:5 ratio of Polysorbate 20 to Oil in order to achieve a clearer solubilization. 1:1 means 1 part Polysorbate 20 to 1 part oil.

Step 1:  ‎Mix an equal amount of Polysorbate 20 with your essential or fragrance oil, ensuring it forms a clear mixture.

Step 2: Next, add this mixture to either water or your water-based solution and stir well. (See Hints and extra notes below).

*HINT: The quantity of Polysorbate 20 you need depends on the quantity of oil (e g. essential or fragrance oil) you’re trying to mix into your water-based product.

‎If the mixture is cloudy, slowly increase the Polysorbate 20 concentration to ratio 2:1 (i.e. two parts Polysorbate 20 to one part oil).

• Start with a 1:1 ratio (that is, one part Polysorbate 20 to one part oil);
• If still cloudy, increase to 2:1
• If still cloudy, increase to ratio 3:1
• If still cloudy, increase to ratio 4:1
• If still cloudy, increase to ratio 5:1 (Polysorbate 20 to oil ratio). Do not further increase the concentration – allow the mixture some time to clear.

 

*EXTRA NOTES:

1. Polysorbate 20 Amount vs Batch Total: Your total Polysorbate 20 usage should not be more than 5% of your total formulation.
2. Polysorbate 20 to Oil Use Ratio: Do not use more than 5:1 to 10:1 ratio (Polysorbate 20 to Oil). That means, add a maximum of 5-10 times the quantity of the fragrance or essential oil you intend to use.

‎The role of the Polysorbate 20 is to help prevent the oil, fragrance or essential oil from separating and clouding the final product.