BTMS-50 (Conditioning Emulsifier)



BTMS-50 is a plant-based Conditioning Emulsifier that is commonly used to formulate hair conditioners. It is also used to as an emulsifier when making lotions and scrubs. BTMS-50 is an effective primary (or complete) emulsifier for hair and body care products, but it does more – it adds conditioning properties to formulations.

BTMS-50 enhances the skin-feel of formulations by making lotions feel luxurious with a silky, powdery after-feel that does not wash-off.  Hair conditioners with BTMS-50 have a nice silky slip, makes hair easy-to-comb  and detangle, and the silky-feel remains after the conditioner is washed off.

INCI Name: Behentrimonium Methosulfate (and) Cetyl Alcohol (and) Butylene Glycol

Other Names: BTMS 50, Incroquat Behenyl TMS-50

Derived From: Rapeseed Oil, also known as Colza Oil (Natural Plant Oils)

Appearance/ Form: Waxy solid flakes/ pellets (also comes in form of small beads). *You’ll receive any of the forms (flakes, pellets or small beads), depending on availability/ our stock.

Colour: White to off-white waxy pellets

Smell: Slightly fishy odour which does not come off in finished products when used below 10-15%

Ingredient Type: Conditioning emulsifier; cationic emulsifier

Ingredient Function: Emulsifying and Conditioning Agent for Hair and Skin; It’s a Primary Emulsifier, and can also be used as a co-emulsifier to impart conditioning properties to a formulation.

Active Ingredient: Behentrimonium Methosulfate (BTMS-50 contains 50% of this active ingredient, which is a conditioning agent and effective hair detangler. The other 50% is made up of thickeners and moisturizers)

Charge: Cationic (positive charge)

Solubility: Oil-soluble

Storage: Store in a tightly sealed container, in a cool and dry place, away from direct heat and light

Shelf Life: 2 years

Melting Point: 60°C (140°F)

PH: 5-7 (in 2% solution)

Usage Rate: Use 1-15% of the overall product; To emulsify, use about 20-25% of of the oil phase

  • Typical usage in Skincare: 1-5%
  • Typical usage in Haircare: 1-8%
  • Emulsified Body Scrubs: 3-6%


Formulation Notes:

  • Melt BTMS-50 before incorporating it into a formulation
  • Add BTMS-50 to heated oil phase of your formulation
  • BTMS-50 can also be used in water-free (anhydrous) formulations/ products
  • BTMS-50 can be used as a co-emulsifier, together with Polawax for example, to impart its conditioning properties to a formulation
  • If used above 10-15%, the characteristic odour of BTMS-50 (fishy smell) will likely be come through in your finished product
  • Adds Viscosity to Formulations: BTMS-50 contains a thickening agent (Cetyl Alcohol), which makes it to add viscosity and thickness to your formulations, so that you don’t have to add a thickening agent when formulating with BTMS-50
  • Note that BTMS does not thicken emulsions as much as other thickening-emulsifiers – it gives lower viscosity
  • Emulsifies Silicones: BTMS-50 is able to emulsify up to 50% of silicone


Uses of BTMS-50 in Skin and Hair Care Formulations

  • Hair Care Products: BTMS-50 is a necessary ingredient for making hair care products including deep and leave-in hair conditioners, detangling products, styling products, hair relaxers, leave-in hair treatments
  • Skin Care Products: Lotions and creams, body butters, balms: BTMS-50 is an effective emulsifier for lotion formulations, and also a conditioning additive for body butters and balms
  • Bath Products including emulsified body scrubs, deodorants and antiperspirants,
  • Enhances Skin-feel of Products: It gives a silky, powdery after-feel on the skin
  • Effective Detangler for Hair: It leaves tangle-free and silky-smooth
  • Mild: Due to its mildness, BTMS-50 is suitable for making leave-on haircare and skincare products


Properties and Benefits of BTMS-50 to Skin and Hair

  • Emulsifying Property: BTMS-50 emulsifies the water and oil in your formulation, so that you have a homogenous, creamy finished product
  • Conditioning Properties: BTMS-50 is a great conditioning ingredient that helps soften and smoothen hair and skin, leaving it plumped up, with a silky and luxurious after-feel
  • Antistatic Property: Due to this, ingredients containing BTMS-50 help prevent your hair from flying around.
  • Antistatic/Detangling Properties: BTMS-50 contains Behentrimonium Methosulfate, which has great detangling and conditioning properties. Due to this ingredient, products containing BTMS-50 are wonderful hair detanglers, and are also able to leave the skin and hair refreshed and conditioned
  • Moisturizing Property: BTMS-50 contains Butylene Glycol, an amazing humectant, which is able to hold onto moisture and helps keep the hair and skin hydrated and moisturized
  • Leave Hair Bouncy:  When used in hair conditioners, BTMS-50 leaves hair with a noticeable body and bounce, and an easy wet-comb-through
  • Mild: BTMS-50 is mild on the skin and hair and suitable for all skin types


*NOTE: This is a cosmetic grade product; For external use only (not to be consumed internally/ eaten); Use for formulation of cosmetic and personal care products only.

Additional information

Weight N/A

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